All the Big Trees

Just came back to Maputo after five days in the field, but I will only be staying for one day. This Saturday night is thus dedicated to recharging my energy, eating chocolate and washing clothes. Tomorrow I have to run shopping for some of the things I had stolen from my luggage. (My razor, seriously?) On Monday morning we leave again, this time to Gaza province. No big trees over there unfortunately, but I’m quite convinced there will be more big impressions.

Here’s a Baobab tree in Tete.

And here’s what my iPod just very suitably played for me, by the way. It’s from one of my favourite albums ever, one of those that I sleep to and that make my mind float. Only have a listen if you’re also staying in tonight, don’t hold me responsible if it suddenly puts you in a state of awe and tranquility. Boa noite.

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Jonsi & Alex – All the Big Trees
Riceboy Sleeps (2009)

Sleeping in an igloo.

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I’m in Tete, the capital of the province with the same name. It is known for being very rich in minerals, for it’s booming economy and for the presence of the Brazilian mining company that many choose to refer to as evil.

So, because of the presence of this certain business, and the very rich visitors and expensive consultants it continuously receives, the hotel prices in Tete suddenly boomed to numbers completely out of proportion to the rest of the country. We’re talking at least 200€ for a night in a single room. In a city that really doesn’t have anything to offer other than business.

So, we are staying a bit outside, in a place where one pays 60€ for a private igloo-like house. And I love it. It’s exactly what I needed after four days of running around in Shangara with kids pulling my hair, tons of sand in my eyes, mosquito horrors, nothing but xima with chicken to eat and one of the most uncomfortable beds I have ever slept in.

I am taking the flight back to Maputo tomorrow afternoon and decided that I will take the evening off tonight. So after spoiling myself with a long shower and some really good food in a restaurant overlooking the river, I found myself in the WFP compound where I met friends I had only emailed with so far, and a very charismatic Chilean woman who also works for the UNICEF and who I met on my first night in Changara. It’s such a shame when great people are hidden like this in the middle of nowhere. Come to Maputo!

Tomorrow I will continue working. Wait, what? It’s already Friday? Weekends don’t exist in the field, especially not when you’re doing something you’re enjoying. Frankly, I can’t wait to get back to my computer, but I deserve this sleep and I really deserved that perfect fish fillet. Yum.

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Day 3 in Changara

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The days start very early and end late in Changara. I have been running around from school to school, noting down a million thoughts, dreams and names in my little notebook. Other than that, I have been touched by the stories of young people, watched an important theatre show, and filled half of my 16GB SD card with photos. My little obsession with having order in my files definitely pays off in moments like this.

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I get so happy when work is intense like this. It suddenly feels much more meaningful than when sitting in an office. Also, I have during this short time learnt far more about the work of UNICEF and the situation in Mozambique than I ever could have in the office. Changara district in Tete province is one of the poorest in Mozambique. This place takes poverty beyond what I have seen of poverty before.

I will tell you more about Changara, the Child Friendly Schools initiative and my work with the UNICEF at some other point. Now, I’ll do just a little bit more of writing and then use my headphones and some Brian Eno to block out the loud party outside of my window. I have to make sure I get some sleep. Another long and intense day tomorrow.

Anyway, here’s my tired face for you. Boa noite!

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F1- Racing for blood.

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The horror of listening to a whole bunch of mosquitoes hovering around your net in a malaria prone area. They sound like very hungry and slightly deadly Formula 1 cars, and they are some sneaky bastards with the noted ability to squeeze into your safety zone. Is it on the inside or on the outside? Oh, and they can sit on the net so you don’t even want to have your big toe touching it. However, if you’re patient and skilled enough, that’s your chance to kill them. Heeere mozzie, mozzie, mozzie!

I’ve always been paranoid about mosquitoes since I was very allergic to their bites as a kid. One of my favourite childhood memories is when me and my mom, armed with indoor shoes, would go for a mosquito hunt in the middle of the night. We both have a very sharp sense of hearing and would never accept sleeping in the same room as a mosquito. Now I have to. And I’m sure you’ve noticed I’m not happy having to break this tradition.

Wow, they really do sound angry, and they all have different sounds, which makes it sound like a proper F1 race, I guess this is ze race for blooood.

Stolen essentials and baobab trees

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I have found the land of the magic trees. These amazing creations, scattered all over the Tete landscape, look as if they have entire little villages inside of their enormous stems. The baobab tree does not only bear a nutritious, vitamin rich and useful fruit – it’s also pretty damn beautiful.

So, I have been here for a day, and it has been a rather hectic one, of various reasons. Firstly imagine getting the greatly exciting assignment of being sent to the field to in a few days collect, photograph and report on various people’s experiences of implemented projects. Then, imagine arriving to your guesthouse and realizing that there are things missing from your luggage. And that one of these things is the charger for your camera – the same camera that you very much will need to charge. Let me at this moment remind you that you are far out in the middle of nowhere. And we’re talking so far out that the local bar only serves one kind of beer. Just forget finding a charger out here.

Anyway, two hundred phonecalls later, I had found a place that sells Canon chargers, a friend who could buy one for me, and a random acquaintance of a friend, who just happens to be on his way to the same province tomorrow! (aaand my friend just happens to be such an angel that I also will get to borrow an L lens.) So simply put: a new charger and an awesome lens are on their way to me with tomorrow’s flight, and somebody will bring them out here. Because one always knows somebody, who knows somebody, who knows somebody who.. right?

So, I’m currently staying in the only guesthouse there is in this district. There are only two types of rooms, one for 10€, the other for 30€. And the difference? A mirror, and a TV. I don’t watch TV.

So anyway, here I am. In the middle of nowhere. On a very exciting assignment with the UNICEF. And right now I’m mainly amazed by the good 3g connection while focusing on hiding well inside my mosquito net. I’m completely covered in repellent and a little bit paranoid. The last thing I need now is malaria.

My neighbour is blasting Beyonce from his mobile phone so I might as well give you a photo of my bathroom window. I chose the cheaper room, of course. It’s all about piorities, darling.

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Just like in Scandinavia

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It’s 4.30am and I don’t want to move outside of the warm and safe little cocoon consisting of my bed and the cover. It’s freezing cold on the outside! You know the feeling, right? Haven’t felt like this in months. Gah..

This makes me think of when I was living in that very charming but also badly isolated house in Copenhagen, I was sometimes so cold I would put my beanie on before even leaving the bed.

And now my alarm goes off again on the phone I strategically placed in the other side of the room.. gotta catch that flight. Ciao!

Núcleo de Arte

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Then there was Sunday. And a friend played Vinyl records. And there was dancing, happy people and good vibes. And the best thing about the party in Núcleo is that it starts early and lets you dance enough before it’s time to go home. Still reasonably fresh, happy and ready for a Monday morning at your new job.

Thank you for all your messages, comments and emails. It feels so nice to know that you notice and that you are here with me when I’m a bit down and confused. You just simply won’t allow me to feel lonely, will you?! Damn, I have so much love for you, my friends. Anyway, I’m back on track now, and maybe, just maybe, everything will turn out to be perfectly great. :)

Here’s also a photo of my current me, just because you’ve been such darlings Time to change to my pyjamas and go to sleep now. Beijinhos.

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Drive-by, the musical.

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An interesting observation I made yesterday, is that this place and the past months actually have been full of defeat. Until now, I hadn’t quite realized that while Mozambique seems full of opportunities, it tends to promise things it doesn’t keep and build up false expectations that later dissolve into nothingness and dissapointment.

I mean, of course, I’ve done great things here. I’ve monitored elections, prisons and political changes. I’ve built up an interesting network and despite not having found friends I can both talk and dance with – I met a few beautiful people that I will keep with me always. I’ve been enjoying the weather, the music, the wildlife and Maputo. And I have traveled, seen palm trees, and learnt quite a lot of Portuguese.

But now, after five months, I must admit I’m kind of loosing my balance. What’s next? Was this all? Why am I so far from the people I love, and what should I do in order to reanimate my finances? Where do I apply to get some real, sincere hugs?

So, Im starting a new consultancy on Monday, because that’s what I apparently have become – a consultant, and on Tuesday I’m travelling up north. To work. Getting acces to areas I’m very interested in. Doing things I really love. Meeting people, photographing, writing stories, reporting. Contributing with my skills. Getting paid to do so. Doing it for an organization I believe in and respect.

I should be happy. What an experience! However, the general feeling of uncertainty seems to completely have killed looking forward to things. Maybe on Monday. Also, this will be pretty insignificant in terms of contributing to my budget. But still, the experience is priceless, it’s an investment in myself which is worth more than anything else. Problem is that this excuse could force me to live off my savings for another year. Not sustainable.

But then, as usual and provided that proactivity won’t fail, I’m convinced that something suddenly will pop up and solve everything I have been worrying about lately. And that’s the thought that keeps me company while sitting on the front porch of this big house that suddenly got empty. The sun has just set, the evil mosquitoes are coming out, and a small car just swooshed by, blasting Celine Dion through its open windows.

I felt like being in a drive-by scene in some kind of melancholic musical.

Anyway, back to responsibilities and obligations – oh, happy Saturday!