Costa Rica part 1: Two Ticas and a lot of Sun

Remember the story three years ago when I met a girl in Copenhagen airport who was lost and couldn’t find her flight, and who I then helped to find her luggage, buy a new ticket and continue her travels? Well, it happens to be so that this girl added me on Facebook, and it also happens to be so that she was a Tica. Costa Rican, that is. (Tica – girl, Tico – boy.)

I had completely forgotten about the details of this story when Katherine wrote to me last week. “Remember me? I’m the girl from the airport! You are welcome to come visit me here in Costa Rica.” So as I was in the midst of deciding on what to do for Easter holidays, and whether I should go to Costa Rica or not, as Den is on a trip to Cuba at the moment, Katherine popped up out of nowhere and convinced me that it was a great idea.

I boarded the Tica Bus from Managua at 6am on Thursday. The trip was simple, the border crossing went smooth, (Despite the fact that they covered the coolest stamp in my passport! haha) and despite being slightly cold (because people here just love their aircondition..) the 6 hours were a good deal for 58USD return plus the total of 20USD of visa and border costs. Katherine came to pick me up in Liberia, which is the first stop after the border and mainly a pass-through hub. I waited sitting on a sidewalk, watching big SUV’s passing by and American high-school students on some kind of trip ordering Burger King food and speaking the way teenagers do in movies. The wide streets, fast food restaurants and an old Dodge parked just next to me gave me the impression that this is what some parts of the US must look like. The contrast to Nicaragua was huge already, and I was only an hour from the border.

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Katherine and her friend Karen, who both call themselves Ka which soon became a bit confusing, picked me up in their car and we drove off towards the coast. First, we went to Playa de Coco where we had lemonade, hung out in the sun and watched a concert, and then to Tamarindo where my friend Frank lives and where we crashed at his place. Unfortunately, due to the “Ley Seca” which prohibits the sales of alcohol during the holy week, most bars and clubs were closed in Tamarindo, but we ate fantastic Israeli food and had a good sleep, allowing us to leave early the next morning with enough time to drive around and visit various beaches.

In the afternoon, we went back to the two Ka‘s small home village, Nicoya. We went to Katherine’s grandmother’s place, sat by a pool, met with Kathy’s cousin and friends, acted girly, laughed, and went out for dinner and a concert. On Saturday morninig, we met with Kathy’s mother, had a lovely breakfast at their house, and then I jumped on a bus to Tamarindo, with a stop over at Santa Cruz little bus station.

Buying cash

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On the border with Costa Rica, waiting patiently for the bus drivers to come back with our passports.

Currency exchange people are walking around trying to sell Costa Rican colones. Official and ackredited vendors, proudly showing off their id badges.. so I think now is the perfect time to properly introduce you to one of my favourite apps: XE currency.

It shows the exchange rate between the currencies of your choice, has them all, and is extremely convenient in situations like this.. when you simply have no idea what the exchange rate is. Or when, as in my case, you’re simply not much of a number person.

Going out of my 3g range now so – ciao!

One more salsa for the road

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“Let’s go to Fandango and dance!”
“But I’m travelling early tomorrow, I should just pack and sleep..”

3 minutes later:
“Let’s go. Give me 20 minutes.”

Sleep is only applicable when you don’t have the option to dance. And I even got back home early enough to pack and sleep!

Thanks for all the “vueltas”!

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Fandango is a nice and intimate salsa place here in Managua where professionals gather to practice their spins and turns in their vicious little high heeled shoes that my feet just love to get in the way of. And then there’s normal people like me, who just try their best to follow the music and not loose their balance while getting.distracted by the overwhelming amount of arms everywhere, turning, spinning, behind heads, behind waists, around heads, up in the air, spin, spin, spin!

The bachata is far more friendly with its sexy little “one, two, three, pop!” – and if you don’t want to dance, you can just enjoy the show, it’s really beautiful to watch these people dance and to see their different styles.

Okay, little backpack ready. Costa Rica!

– Forgot to mention the feeling I had the other day when walking with a friend on our way to the club at 22 in the evening. Just like now, I was wearing shorts. And a simple top. And the breeze was so warm! Everybody here keeps complaining about the heat, and yes, you do sweat a lot. But I still don’t get it, what’s not to love about not having to be cold?! I’m very happy.

Safety in Managua, and earthquake panic.

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A couple of days ago, I participated in a UN security staff training with the UNDSS here in Managua. We spoke about the security management system, about how to avoid danger, about how to plan field travels and my favourite part – the little tips and advice that one does not necessarily think of in the first place but that might prove to be essential for one’s safety and survival.

Before working for the UN in the field, one must complete the two online courses of Basic and Advanced Security in the Field. They are very informative and include recommendations on how to negotiate with kidnappers, identify land-mines, and navigate using the stars, to more every-day recommendations on which room to choose in a hotel and how to be culturally sensitive.

Once on site, the UN Department of Safety and Security usually arranges a training session focused on issues especially relevant to the duty station. In our case, Managua is a considerably dangerous city where armed robbery and assault is common, especially in taxis.

Best advice of the day: Always look for the handles on the inside of the door before entering a taxi, they are often removed to prepare for robbery.

Secondly, and maybe the most informative part the training: Nicaragua is the third most vulnerable country in the world to climate risks. And in this case, we’re talking massive earthquakes and volcano eruptions.

One of my first encounters with the earthquake panic was when seeing the “Back in when parking” signs on some parking lots. This is to allow for faster evacuation in case of an earthquake. And the tremors are common. “It’s trembling all the time here in Managua, you are just not feeling it because it’s so deep down and not strong enough.” All staff have a kit with a helmet, glasses, gloves, a facemask and a whistle on our desks in the office despite the UN building supposedly having an anti seismic construction. Earthquakes are a serious deal here.

About 41 years ago, on the day before Christmas, Managua went from being the liveliest capital of Central America to suddenly becoming a ruin leveled to the ground. Half of the city’s population was left without a home, and Managua residents moved to areas outside of the core of the city. To this date, the 6.3 magnitude earthquake from 1972 is the reason to why there is no defined city center in Managua, to why taxis navigate using landmarks instead of street names and to why people are so afraid of tremors and keep talking about the “triangle of life”. 10,000 people were killed that year.

Managua is situated on several so called “active fault lines” and has been completely destroyed more than once. It was previously hit by strong earthquakes in 1885 and 1931, which sums up into a pattern of monstrous earthquakes every 40-43 years.

Did I mention the last big one was in 1972?

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The “Triangle of Life” is a theory proposing that the most likely way to survive an earthquake is by seeking shelter next to a strong and stable object, the empty space created next to it as walls and structure fall is referred to as the “triangle of life.” Doorways are, as opposed to common belief, not a safe place – as they no longer serve to hold up the structure in modern buildings.

If feasible, get out as soon as possible. If not, jump down and in under your desk. And keep calm. With your helmet.